The amazing world of "Soutache"

I do not remember the first time I saw Soutache jewelry, but I remember thinking wow, that is so unique. I found tons of tutorials in russian and other eastern languages, but it took a while to get them in English. Just check out Youtube for any number of instructional videos.

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So I thought, why not combine the Soutache with my costume making? I started on small pieces like the one in this post, then worked my way up to more and I love it. It is faster then beading and looks great in rosettes. At first it can be a bit tricky but like everything, it gets much easier the more you do it.

You will need:

Soutache

Felt

needle and thread

Fireline

Center Bead or small ornament as shown

Beads 3 different sizes

Lighter

So get a glass wine, coffee or tea and let's start.

Cut a piece of felt about 1 inch in diameter bigger than your center piece. Afix it to the felt with either glue or by sewing it.

Cut 3 pieces of your soutache in equal length. I used 8 inches.

Find the center of the Soutache. You will see the little ridge where you need to stitch. If you do not hit the center it will be hard to pull your needle though anyways. Place the 3 pieces next to each other and in the middle, and pull your thread through to attache the 3 pieces onto one another.

Securing it at the very top of your center bead/ornament

Remember: the soutache bands do not lay flat, rather lay up right and stacked.

Do one side first, then the other, stitching around and bringing the two sides in one point. While you stack the Soutache bands and secure them with little stitches to themselves and the felt. Try NOT to pull too hard. This will result in buckling. I find this is the hardest part of the whole project.

Once this is done, split the bands. 3 to one side, 3 to the other. Start with your beads. Add one bead on either side, wrap and sew your Soutache and bead together by using the hole in the bead to secure anything in place. Don't sew everything down all the way yet because we will have to cut the felt and wrap the loose ends to the back first. Repeat on the other side.

Now cut the felt close to the finished (almost) piece. Sew your Soutache in a curve to the back to form nice swirls on either sides . Cut off any bands that are too long and stitch them down. I like to burn my Soutache ends with a lighter to prevent fraying. I have not seen others do it but it works for me! I will also cut the felt and leave a little bit extra material so I can bun it with the lighter close to the edge. It creates a somewhat hard edge and it makes finishing off my piece easier. I won't have the problem of the thread tearing though the velt. You can almost imagine it creating a lip for you to use. At this point I like to trace my project onto another piece of felt and set it aside for later. This is to finish the piece off and hide the stitching.

Now that your piece looks like this, the fireline comes in handy. It is much easier to bead with. Tie off your string. Let's start on the red edge and string the larger red bead through the red Soutache. Then string the smaller black bead though the red bead, back into the Soutache. The larger bead will be held in place by the little black bead and will create the spiked look. Using this super easy method (it is easy once you get the swing of things), continue beading around the Soutache edge, decorating with whatever pattern your heart desires.

When all is said and done, burn off any loose strings and attach the felt piece you traced earlier over the back of your masterpiece for a clean look. Hot glue also works but sewing it down with fine stitches is much better.